Full-Curl Assembly Tips

Thank you for purchasing the most realistic working decoy on the market.
The added features of the Full Curls will enhance any spread, however they will require a little more care to maintain. Please use plastic bags with drain holes to protect the decoy finish and flocking when transporting.

Assembly Tips: Since the decoys are high tech with the foam filling, the head and keel attachments will occasionally create some challenges during assembly. If you are experiencing any difficulty in assembly, please refer to the below suggestions.

Decoy Heads

Full Curl Decoy heads swivel and should click/snap into the head, which will take some force. The heads are designed for a very tight fit, and if anything is a hair off, it can create difficulties. The tight fit will eliminate lost heads!

To Insert Heads: Make sure there is no excess flashing, paint or flock on the decoy head and in body head socket, in the decoy.. Sand with 200 grit sand paper to remove excess. Place on a flat surface and insert with a twisting motion, or place firmly between legs. Be careful with the painted bill. The Rester head (low position) does not always snap in and does not swivel, due to the design, therefore you can glue this style for better longevity. See caution below on removing heads.

Trouble shooting inserting difficult heads. Due to the hand made processes, there may be some variances in the decoys.  Please review the below and see if any could apply to your trouble some head(s).
Possible situations. Please review and follow these steps.

1. Some flashing or excess plastic (not trimmed completely) at the mold lines may be left on the parts. Carefully trim flashing with a sharp edge on the head and inside the socket head hole in the body to make the surfaces flat. Be careful so you do not get hurt.
2. Paint or flocking residue on the head or in the decoy socket needs to be removed.
   Use some fine 200 grit sand paper on the surfaces-both the decoy head and in the hole socket in the decoy.
3. Use a hair dryer on the hot setting and heat up the head socket to warm the plastic. (Do not melt the plastic.)
   Then ‘quickly’ insert the head, with a twist if needed. Then let them cool!!
4. Which head style is causing the challenge? The rester head style does not snap/click in some times. See above comment.
5. Could the plug inside the bottom of the decoy head socket be too high and not allow enough depth for the head to insert?
   (The plug is put in the decoy head socket in the body, after foam filling. A slight variance can create too much foam expansion, which could make the socket too short or tight. This rarely occurs.) We may have to replace the decoy body.

To Remove the Heads:
Caution: Removing the heads once they are snapped into position may create damage to the head. Remove at your own risk. If you must, we suggest holding the decoy tightly between your legs, and then twist up, around and to lift the head off. Some heads many not want to come off at all, due to the tight tolerances.

Repainting and Flocking heads: You can re-flock and touch up the decoy without removal of the head. Just cover the part you are not re-doing.

Keel Insertion

Do the decoys tip over? If the keel is not filled, this will occur. Keels are not needed for field hunting.
The keel acts like a rudder for the decoy and provides correct balance in the water.

Filling the Keels. Remove the rubber plug from the rear end of the keel. Best fill is sand, or water (may leak out). You do not have to remove the fill every time. Might consider re-filling for each use if you are packing in a long distance. For very fast water, add some shot to the keel, which makes the decoys move like real ducks in moving water. (One way to get rid of the old lead shot sitting around.)

How to install the Keels.
The end with the tab with a hole goes in the keel slot first. This is the front of the keel. The rubber plug hole goes to the rear of the decoy. The top of the keel is found on the very top of the section which inserts into the decoy.

Keel Installation: The keels are designed to go on with effort, so they will not come loose. This effort can vary. The close tolerances and foam filled body make a tight fit. One way to insert is to put the decoy between your legs (sitting) and push the keel in, some times hitting the rear end assists with the process. Do not damage the decoy finish during the process.

Trouble shooting keels: they will not insert.

1. Examine the top of the keel to make sure the surface is absolutely flat along the entire top and all flashing (excess plastic from molding) has been removed. Trim with a knife to level the top of keel, buy dragging the sharp edge away from you, across the surface to remove any excess plastic from the molding process along the top of the keel.
2. If the keel is still difficult to insert, then sand lightly along the section which inserts into the decoy, heat up the decoy channel again and insert the keel immediately. If you over sand, or the keel is loose, just glue it in.
3. Using a lubricant may also help. Dish soap usually works.
   If not successful, the use a hot hair dryer to heat up the bottom of the decoy keel channel. Insert the keel immediately.

String Storage

Wrap the decoy weight string around the keel between the keel and bottom of the decoy. Do not wrap around the decoy, since this could damage the finish/paint. If the front keel tab is too high and does not allow the string to wrap around the keel, then it needs to be trimmed to create space between the decoy and the tab on the keel. (The tab may have not been trimmed completely as needed during production).
Cut off, trim off as needed. Heating the knife can help. Make sure you support the keel tab so it will not break off!!

Decoy Weights

Strap weights are recommended
The keel was designed for flexible metal strap weights. There is a keeper slot in the center of the decoy keel, so the flexible strap weight can be inserted and folded into the keel during transport. This will keep the weight from abrading the decoy during transport. The strap weights are available at most sports/hunting stores.

Transport

Please place in heavy duty plastic bags which fully cover the decoys since the decoy has a textured surface and flocking. This will prolong the life of the finish. Use a paper punch on the bottom of the bag for water drainage. Make sure the heads (along with the decoy bodies) are covered with a bag, if they extend above the decoy bag or poncho pocket opening. Dry decoys after each use. Do not allow to mold or mildew. Full-Curl’s can be left in the water for the season, but they will deteriorate just like other decoys. The water may have elements which can stain or compromise the finish and flock.

If transporting in divided compartments in the bags, we suggest using a plastic bag as a sleeve in each decoy bag compartment or divider. The bags offer a very slippery surface which will eliminate most friction, which can cause wear on the decoy surface. Decoy bag material as it gets colder becomes more stiff and abrasive also. This is especially true in freezing weather.

Aero sells very HD(heavy duty) thick clear-plastic bags in various sizes. Invest a few dollars in bags to extend the life of your custom decoys.

Cleaning and Storage: Clean decoy and flock with warm dish soapy water and a soft brush. Dry completely before storage. Store covered, in a dark and dry storage location with a continual moderate temperature.

Re-Painting

Remove loose paint. Lightly sand as needed. Flame bare plastic and apply plastic primer to these areas. Do a test spot to make sure the paint will adhere and not bubble or lift off. Paint as desired. Full-Curl paint can not be shipped, since it is hazmat.

Flaming : One close pass is all that is needed with tip of torch almost touching the decoy. Fast- 1 foot per second 1 x only. (Second pass will re-melt the plastic &negate the process). Once flamed do not touch the surface with your hands unless wearing plastic or clean cotton gloves.

Paint as needed and then top with a flat/matte clear coat finish. Do not apply the clear coat heavy, or it will shine.
We do not sell paint at this time. The paint we use is not approved for shipping in the US.

Re-Flocking

Flocking instruction come with the kits. Do not apply flat spray can sealer over flocking!
Level off the pile of the flocking with Scotch brite pads. Flame, use a plastic primer, apply glue in approximately 70 degree room, apply flocking and allow to dry before use or storing. See the flocking instructions for further information on flocking and flaming.